Archive for the ‘Gear’ category

Buying motorcycle helmet?

May 22nd, 2009

There is a lot of information to know before you begin shopping for the only piece of gear that is likely so save your life in this sport. You need to do your research and understand what to look for before investing on a pretty helmet. Unfortunately, buying a helmet is oftentimes an afterthought of buying a bike and the decision to purchase a particular helmet is rushed because you want to get your new bike out on the streets.

What helmet should I buy?

The most important information you should consider when looking at a helmet is whether it is a DOT, Snell, or BSI certified. Sometimes you will find that a helmet maybe certified for more than one safety standard. It is not unusual to find DOT and Snell approved helmets. These certified helmets range in price from as low as $50 to as high as $2000. When choosing my first helmet, I looked for helmets that were DOT certified only. There was no particular reason why I picked DOT over Snell as the differences between the two helmets are minor. However, DOT approved helmets were more prevalent in my town.

How much should I pay?

Once you get past the DOT and Snell certified helmets, the more expensive helmets usually give you lighter-weight material construction, better aerodynamics, more ventilation, removable fitment pads, reduced wind noise, and fancier graphics. It is really up to you to decide how much of these additional features are worth to you. Some of these features offer a benefit, while others are a matter of personal preference. For example, a helmet that offers reduced wind noise will also allow you to hear events occuring around you while riding your sports bike. The more expensive helmets are not going to give you better protection. In fact, different models from the same manufacturer can have varying results from one type of crash to another. My current helmet is an HJC AC-12 which looks good, has tolerable aerodynamics and noise reduction, has good enough ventilation for hot summer days, but cost me an affordable $120.00.

Should I buy used?

NO. I do not recommend buying a helmet used unless you know the full history of the helmet. A helmet could have been involved in a crash and have no visible signs of damage. Technically, a helmet needs to be replaced after one drop from any height. Even if the shell itself does not look damaged, the protective foam construction on the inside of the shell may have been compressed. It this protective foam (called Expanded Polystyrene that looks like white sytrofoam) that actually absorbs the energy of an impact. The foam is non-resilient, which means that once crushed, it has lost its energy-absorbing capability. Hence the reason why it should be replaced after just a single drop from any height. Finally, if you still want to purchase a used helmet that you are confident is safe, check the age of the helmet. Helmets need to be replaced every 3-5 years for maximum effectiveness.

What brand should I buy?

Different models and different brands can make a big difference in a helmet’s fitment to your noggin. There is no easy summary I can provide on which brand or model of helmet is going to fit a particular head shape better. Your best bet is to go down to your local motorcycle dealership and try on a few helmets. When I was searching for my first helmet, I went down to my local motorcycle dealership with the largest selection of motorcycle gear and accessories to try out everything. I had to try on at least 30 different helmets before finding one that fit my head nicely and was within my price range. Then, I kept the helmet on my head for another 15 minutes walking throughout the store to ensure that it is comfortable to wear for more than just a few seconds. If you wear glasses (aka spectacles), also ensure that you try the helmet on with your glasses. It can be tricky to get your glasses in there, especially if you do not have metal-framed ones.

How should a helmet fit?

The ideal helmet will be snug against your cheeks. With the chin-strap snugly done up, you should not be able to remove the helmet when you reach behind your head and pull the helmet off from the rear of the helmet. Check the chin-bar and ensure that your chin is not protruding too far outside the chin. Just imagine yourself sliding on pavement face-first with your head pointed in the direction of your slide. Your chin bar should be able to protect all parts of your chin. Also ensure that when your chin-strap it done up, you can only squeeze (at most) 2 fingers between the strap and your lower chin. Avoid quick-snap buckles or other "quick" fasteners for your helmet. I still maintain that the double D-ring fastener is the most effective, convenient, and comfortable fastening system. As a final test, wobble your head back and fort and side to side. Your helmet should move with your head snugly pressing against your cheeks, jaws, temples, and forehead and also move your skin with the movement of your helmet. Even though I was able to fit into an XS helmet, it was too tight around my cheeks and my chin was protroduing below the chin-bar, which made me up to a size-S helmet.

Should I buy it?

Make sure that before you buy a helmet, that you are absolutely positively sure that it fits properly and is the most comfortable helmet you can find. Otherwise, you will not wear it no matter how much money you have spent on it. Of course, I knew that my local dealer could never compete with online prices, so I write down the brand, model, and size of new helmet and then bought it online.

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Buying motorcycle boots?

May 21st, 2009

In today's post, I will discuss how to buy the right motorcycle boots. Boots seem to be the last thing most riders think about when buying their gear. Even among riders who seem to know the importance of gear, boots are seldom a priority because most riders have boots that are usable for motorcycling. Usable, however, does not mean appropriate.

What boot should I buy?

You should buy boots designed for motorcycles. However, mere boots designed for motorcycles are not enough. Even over the ankle motorcycle boots do not offer enough protection in my honest opinion. You need boots that have sufficient armor to protect your feet, ankles, and lower legs from injury. You do not even have to be moving to injure your legs. Human flesh cannot stand up to metal, concrete, and asphalt.

There are many styles of boots that you can buy for riding your sports bike. When picking a motorcycle boot, you have to decide what boot material is your preference: leather, textile, or plastic. For sports bike, I prefer racing boots that are a hard plastic/leather mixed material construction that is fastened by a zipper. Other forms of fasteners include laces and Velcro. I do not feel comfortable with any other fastener type other than a zipper because laces can get snagged on bike parts. My first boot was a Caterpillar steel-toed boot and on my first ride, I almost dropped my bike when the laces of my boot got caught up in the shift lever. That was almost an embarrassing experience that forced me to buy a new pair of plastic/leather racing boots. I have never had a Velcro fastened boot, but I do not have the confidence that a Velcro can keep the boots on my feet in a crash. But the single most important thing when selecting a boot is to ensure that it is a high-cut style that covers your ankles entirely. It does not have to be a racing style boot, though it is my number one preference. One of the highest points of injury in a motorcycle accident were injured ankles. Good riding boots provide significant ankle/shin protection, but some motorcycle boots are no better than $20.00 Wal-Mart boots. Non-slip soles are also important.

How should a boot fit?

Like a glove. The first point to note is that motorcycle boots have odd sizes as they do not have the exact same size as shoes. I wear a size 8.5 motorcycle boots, but have a 9.5 shoe size. This fact alone makes it very difficult to buy your boots online. But just like buying a helmet online, you want to make sure the boots fit like a glove by testing out your boots at the local motorcycle dealership.

Motorcycle boots should fit snug like your everyday shoe; not too tight, not too loose. You should be able to walk around in them normally without your heel moving as you walk. As a general rule, if you have any doubt that they are too loose, then they most likely are. When they fit correctly, you will know it. It is also acceptable to wear thick socks with your boots if they are too loose, but wearing thick socks in the summer is going to be very unpleasant. Because these boots do not breathe well, they are going to make your feet sweat puddles within your boots. Yucky!!!

Plastic-enforced style racing motorcycle boots will not be comfortable for walking around. Motorcycle boots, especially racing boots, do not bend very easily at the ankles. Walking around in them can be uncomfortable and be quite tiring. But you bought these boots for riding, why are you walking around in them? As with my helmet buying guide, visit your local motorcycle dealership and try on their selection of boots with appropriate socks. Once you find a pair of boots that give a snug fit, keep them on for another 15-20 minutes so that your feet can tell you if they are in complete and utter agony after 15-20 minutes of wearing them. If you choose the style, material, and brand wisely, you should be able to find a good pair of boots that you can comfortably use to walk around.

Which brand should I buy?

This is a very subjective topic and it will depend on your foot shape. For my foot, my preference is a Sidi or the new super hot and sexy Puma boots. Look to your boot manufacturer's website for which boots best fit your foot shape.

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