Archive for the ‘101’ category

Buying motorcycle helmet?

May 22nd, 2009

There is a lot of information to know before you begin shopping for the only piece of gear that is likely so save your life in this sport. You need to do your research and understand what to look for before investing on a pretty helmet. Unfortunately, buying a helmet is oftentimes an afterthought of buying a bike and the decision to purchase a particular helmet is rushed because you want to get your new bike out on the streets.

What helmet should I buy?

The most important information you should consider when looking at a helmet is whether it is a DOT, Snell, or BSI certified. Sometimes you will find that a helmet maybe certified for more than one safety standard. It is not unusual to find DOT and Snell approved helmets. These certified helmets range in price from as low as $50 to as high as $2000. When choosing my first helmet, I looked for helmets that were DOT certified only. There was no particular reason why I picked DOT over Snell as the differences between the two helmets are minor. However, DOT approved helmets were more prevalent in my town.

How much should I pay?

Once you get past the DOT and Snell certified helmets, the more expensive helmets usually give you lighter-weight material construction, better aerodynamics, more ventilation, removable fitment pads, reduced wind noise, and fancier graphics. It is really up to you to decide how much of these additional features are worth to you. Some of these features offer a benefit, while others are a matter of personal preference. For example, a helmet that offers reduced wind noise will also allow you to hear events occuring around you while riding your sports bike. The more expensive helmets are not going to give you better protection. In fact, different models from the same manufacturer can have varying results from one type of crash to another. My current helmet is an HJC AC-12 which looks good, has tolerable aerodynamics and noise reduction, has good enough ventilation for hot summer days, but cost me an affordable $120.00.

Should I buy used?

NO. I do not recommend buying a helmet used unless you know the full history of the helmet. A helmet could have been involved in a crash and have no visible signs of damage. Technically, a helmet needs to be replaced after one drop from any height. Even if the shell itself does not look damaged, the protective foam construction on the inside of the shell may have been compressed. It this protective foam (called Expanded Polystyrene that looks like white sytrofoam) that actually absorbs the energy of an impact. The foam is non-resilient, which means that once crushed, it has lost its energy-absorbing capability. Hence the reason why it should be replaced after just a single drop from any height. Finally, if you still want to purchase a used helmet that you are confident is safe, check the age of the helmet. Helmets need to be replaced every 3-5 years for maximum effectiveness.

What brand should I buy?

Different models and different brands can make a big difference in a helmet’s fitment to your noggin. There is no easy summary I can provide on which brand or model of helmet is going to fit a particular head shape better. Your best bet is to go down to your local motorcycle dealership and try on a few helmets. When I was searching for my first helmet, I went down to my local motorcycle dealership with the largest selection of motorcycle gear and accessories to try out everything. I had to try on at least 30 different helmets before finding one that fit my head nicely and was within my price range. Then, I kept the helmet on my head for another 15 minutes walking throughout the store to ensure that it is comfortable to wear for more than just a few seconds. If you wear glasses (aka spectacles), also ensure that you try the helmet on with your glasses. It can be tricky to get your glasses in there, especially if you do not have metal-framed ones.

How should a helmet fit?

The ideal helmet will be snug against your cheeks. With the chin-strap snugly done up, you should not be able to remove the helmet when you reach behind your head and pull the helmet off from the rear of the helmet. Check the chin-bar and ensure that your chin is not protruding too far outside the chin. Just imagine yourself sliding on pavement face-first with your head pointed in the direction of your slide. Your chin bar should be able to protect all parts of your chin. Also ensure that when your chin-strap it done up, you can only squeeze (at most) 2 fingers between the strap and your lower chin. Avoid quick-snap buckles or other "quick" fasteners for your helmet. I still maintain that the double D-ring fastener is the most effective, convenient, and comfortable fastening system. As a final test, wobble your head back and fort and side to side. Your helmet should move with your head snugly pressing against your cheeks, jaws, temples, and forehead and also move your skin with the movement of your helmet. Even though I was able to fit into an XS helmet, it was too tight around my cheeks and my chin was protroduing below the chin-bar, which made me up to a size-S helmet.

Should I buy it?

Make sure that before you buy a helmet, that you are absolutely positively sure that it fits properly and is the most comfortable helmet you can find. Otherwise, you will not wear it no matter how much money you have spent on it. Of course, I knew that my local dealer could never compete with online prices, so I write down the brand, model, and size of new helmet and then bought it online.

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Buying motorcycle boots?

May 21st, 2009

In today's post, I will discuss how to buy the right motorcycle boots. Boots seem to be the last thing most riders think about when buying their gear. Even among riders who seem to know the importance of gear, boots are seldom a priority because most riders have boots that are usable for motorcycling. Usable, however, does not mean appropriate.

What boot should I buy?

You should buy boots designed for motorcycles. However, mere boots designed for motorcycles are not enough. Even over the ankle motorcycle boots do not offer enough protection in my honest opinion. You need boots that have sufficient armor to protect your feet, ankles, and lower legs from injury. You do not even have to be moving to injure your legs. Human flesh cannot stand up to metal, concrete, and asphalt.

There are many styles of boots that you can buy for riding your sports bike. When picking a motorcycle boot, you have to decide what boot material is your preference: leather, textile, or plastic. For sports bike, I prefer racing boots that are a hard plastic/leather mixed material construction that is fastened by a zipper. Other forms of fasteners include laces and Velcro. I do not feel comfortable with any other fastener type other than a zipper because laces can get snagged on bike parts. My first boot was a Caterpillar steel-toed boot and on my first ride, I almost dropped my bike when the laces of my boot got caught up in the shift lever. That was almost an embarrassing experience that forced me to buy a new pair of plastic/leather racing boots. I have never had a Velcro fastened boot, but I do not have the confidence that a Velcro can keep the boots on my feet in a crash. But the single most important thing when selecting a boot is to ensure that it is a high-cut style that covers your ankles entirely. It does not have to be a racing style boot, though it is my number one preference. One of the highest points of injury in a motorcycle accident were injured ankles. Good riding boots provide significant ankle/shin protection, but some motorcycle boots are no better than $20.00 Wal-Mart boots. Non-slip soles are also important.

How should a boot fit?

Like a glove. The first point to note is that motorcycle boots have odd sizes as they do not have the exact same size as shoes. I wear a size 8.5 motorcycle boots, but have a 9.5 shoe size. This fact alone makes it very difficult to buy your boots online. But just like buying a helmet online, you want to make sure the boots fit like a glove by testing out your boots at the local motorcycle dealership.

Motorcycle boots should fit snug like your everyday shoe; not too tight, not too loose. You should be able to walk around in them normally without your heel moving as you walk. As a general rule, if you have any doubt that they are too loose, then they most likely are. When they fit correctly, you will know it. It is also acceptable to wear thick socks with your boots if they are too loose, but wearing thick socks in the summer is going to be very unpleasant. Because these boots do not breathe well, they are going to make your feet sweat puddles within your boots. Yucky!!!

Plastic-enforced style racing motorcycle boots will not be comfortable for walking around. Motorcycle boots, especially racing boots, do not bend very easily at the ankles. Walking around in them can be uncomfortable and be quite tiring. But you bought these boots for riding, why are you walking around in them? As with my helmet buying guide, visit your local motorcycle dealership and try on their selection of boots with appropriate socks. Once you find a pair of boots that give a snug fit, keep them on for another 15-20 minutes so that your feet can tell you if they are in complete and utter agony after 15-20 minutes of wearing them. If you choose the style, material, and brand wisely, you should be able to find a good pair of boots that you can comfortably use to walk around.

Which brand should I buy?

This is a very subjective topic and it will depend on your foot shape. For my foot, my preference is a Sidi or the new super hot and sexy Puma boots. Look to your boot manufacturer's website for which boots best fit your foot shape.

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Got my motorcycle license … now what?

May 14th, 2009

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE

First thing to learn is: above all !!! look where you want to go!

Rear brake.

On clean pavment...
Get up to about 20 kph and work the rear brake.
Find how hard you have to push before it locks up.
Do this in a straight line only!.
Once you are use to the back locking for a short distance go for longer distance and learn how you can move the bars and swing the back wheel and stay in control even with the tire locked. Similar to doing this with a bicycle.
The point just before the rear locks in the rear braking threshold.
It doesn't take long to master this brake in a straight line. Amount of use in corners is debated to no end.

Front brake (main brake).

These brakes have huge stopping power.
Same as before.... get up to 20 kph. very lightly riding the rear brake as you use the front brake for all your stopping.
You'll quickly notice that you can slam your balls into the gas tank without a problem. After that happens a few times and you learn to squeeze the tank with your legs you'll be able to learn how hard you can use the front brakes. (always squeeze the tank while riding)
Keep applying more and more front brake until you feel the rear wheel lock a bit (because the back gets lighter as you brake with the front)

Once you get a handle on that go to higher speeds.
Use both brakes and find out how fast you can stop.
The point where you keep the rear on the ground without it locking while using the front brake hard is your total braking power.

If by chance you lock the front, release it as fast as possible. Nothing will drop a bike faster than locking the front tire. BUT it is possible to lock it for a very brief moment with no ill effects.

Road conditions and braking.

Under poor road conditions we use the rear brake as a main. (Conditions such as gravel, snow, ice, grass, dirt etc. EXCLUDING WATER).
The front tire will grip well in a straight line under wet conditions unless your on smooth concrete or running race tires.
Road conditions can change in a flash!
Even pro's tuck the front wheel by using the front brake when they touch dirt. Training yourself to use the right brake at the right time will come with experience and learning to remain calm.

Which brings us to ....?

Vision.

In a car your use to looking for much larger problems.
such as other cars, kids, etc. because of this you don't really pay much attention to the road surface unless it's bumping you around.
On a bike it's a whole new ball game.
Not only are you looking for the same things but your also looking for dust on the surface of the road that's just beyond braking distance. Scanning the road surfaces close and far away. Looking into the corner before you take it (is there a hole? tar snake? gravel? water? how tight is the corner?) and planing on how to deal with it before you get there. Once you enter the corner you should be looking through/past it for the same reason.
sand or gravel=snail pace and rear brake.
You will learn to become more aware of what's around you, how traffic is moving, what the street lights are going to do and will that car turn left in front of you.

Visibility.

Beeing seen has a major effect on your life when you ride.
Ever sat at an intersection trying to turn left in your car and a van or truck is doing the same from the opposite direction?
Can't see shit can you? so you slowly keep poking your front end out to look around him/her. Sooner or later they hope no one is coming and gun it. How easy would it be to see a bike if he was coming along side that van/truck?
Impossible!
If the bike is speeding by even 10kph it's game over.
When approching an intersection and you see 2 cars both making left turns slow down and move to the right. This allows the on coming driver to see you much sooner.
IT WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE.
Stay out of blind spots. If you can't make eye contact with a driver make him look for you. rev the bike so he/she hears you and you see them look for you.
Because bikes run single headlights it's harder for cars to judge your speed.
When you see a motorcycle coming toward you, you can see their head light jiggle as they go over bumps. Use this to your advantage. Flash your high beam to get their attention and make it appear your traveling faster than you really are. It works quite well.

Corners.

The more you corner the more your tire rides on it's side.
As a new rider it's highly unlikely you will break this surface in to the point it will have the same "contact patch" (surface touching the road) as the center of your tires. Thus less braking power is needed to lock the tire.
Locking a tire in a corner is never good.
So be careful. Learn to use the brakes before the corner, ride through it then re apply the power. Even in the corners your front brake is still strongest due to the weight shift and suspension compression but if it locks up it gives the worst results...so be light on it.
As you ride you'll learn how much brake you can use by scaring the shit out of yourself and grabing at them.

Tires.

They stick a hell of a hell of a lot better than you think!
If your in a corner too fast...above all!!!
look where you want to go! lean as much as you need to. a bike will stick like glue even when your halfway through the foot peg. I know.
as your scared and leaning like hell apply light pressure to the brakes and the bike will right itself
don't panic and nail the brakes, you'll only lay it down.
or you'll bring it upright so much that you can't complete the corner and you'll hit the ditch on the outside.

I think that's enough from me for now.

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