There is a lot of information to know before you begin shopping for the only piece of gear that is likely so save your life in this sport. You need to do your research and understand what to look for before investing on a pretty helmet. Unfortunately, buying a helmet is oftentimes an afterthought of buying a bike and the decision to purchase a particular helmet is rushed because you want to get your new bike out on the streets.
What helmet should I buy?
The most important information you should consider when looking at a helmet is whether it is a DOT, Snell, or BSI certified. Sometimes you will find that a helmet maybe certified for more than one safety standard. It is not unusual to find DOT and Snell approved helmets. These certified helmets range in price from as low as $50 to as high as $2000. When choosing my first helmet, I looked for helmets that were DOT certified only. There was no particular reason why I picked DOT over Snell as the differences between the two helmets are minor. However, DOT approved helmets were more prevalent in my town.
How much should I pay?
Once you get past the DOT and Snell certified helmets, the more expensive helmets usually give you lighter-weight material construction, better aerodynamics, more ventilation, removable fitment pads, reduced wind noise, and fancier graphics. It is really up to you to decide how much of these additional features are worth to you. Some of these features offer a benefit, while others are a matter of personal preference. For example, a helmet that offers reduced wind noise will also allow you to hear events occuring around you while riding your sports bike. The more expensive helmets are not going to give you better protection. In fact, different models from the same manufacturer can have varying results from one type of crash to another. My current helmet is an HJC AC-12 which looks good, has tolerable aerodynamics and noise reduction, has good enough ventilation for hot summer days, but cost me an affordable $120.00.
Should I buy used?
NO. I do not recommend buying a helmet used unless you know the full history of the helmet. A helmet could have been involved in a crash and have no visible signs of damage. Technically, a helmet needs to be replaced after one drop from any height. Even if the shell itself does not look damaged, the protective foam construction on the inside of the shell may have been compressed. It this protective foam (called Expanded Polystyrene that looks like white sytrofoam) that actually absorbs the energy of an impact. The foam is non-resilient, which means that once crushed, it has lost its energy-absorbing capability. Hence the reason why it should be replaced after just a single drop from any height. Finally, if you still want to purchase a used helmet that you are confident is safe, check the age of the helmet. Helmets need to be replaced every 3-5 years for maximum effectiveness.
What brand should I buy?
Different models and different brands can make a big difference in a helmet’s fitment to your noggin. There is no easy summary I can provide on which brand or model of helmet is going to fit a particular head shape better. Your best bet is to go down to your local motorcycle dealership and try on a few helmets. When I was searching for my first helmet, I went down to my local motorcycle dealership with the largest selection of motorcycle gear and accessories to try out everything. I had to try on at least 30 different helmets before finding one that fit my head nicely and was within my price range. Then, I kept the helmet on my head for another 15 minutes walking throughout the store to ensure that it is comfortable to wear for more than just a few seconds. If you wear glasses (aka spectacles), also ensure that you try the helmet on with your glasses. It can be tricky to get your glasses in there, especially if you do not have metal-framed ones.
How should a helmet fit?
The ideal helmet will be snug against your cheeks. With the chin-strap snugly done up, you should not be able to remove the helmet when you reach behind your head and pull the helmet off from the rear of the helmet. Check the chin-bar and ensure that your chin is not protruding too far outside the chin. Just imagine yourself sliding on pavement face-first with your head pointed in the direction of your slide. Your chin bar should be able to protect all parts of your chin. Also ensure that when your chin-strap it done up, you can only squeeze (at most) 2 fingers between the strap and your lower chin. Avoid quick-snap buckles or other "quick" fasteners for your helmet. I still maintain that the double D-ring fastener is the most effective, convenient, and comfortable fastening system. As a final test, wobble your head back and fort and side to side. Your helmet should move with your head snugly pressing against your cheeks, jaws, temples, and forehead and also move your skin with the movement of your helmet. Even though I was able to fit into an XS helmet, it was too tight around my cheeks and my chin was protroduing below the chin-bar, which made me up to a size-S helmet.
Should I buy it?
Make sure that before you buy a helmet, that you are absolutely positively sure that it fits properly and is the most comfortable helmet you can find. Otherwise, you will not wear it no matter how much money you have spent on it. Of course, I knew that my local dealer could never compete with online prices, so I write down the brand, model, and size of new helmet and then bought it online.
US $15.00
